North Iceland · Winter · 9 min read
The long nights are a feature, not a bug.
Why the best aurora-chasing isn't in Reykjavík — and which northern lodges send a wake-up text when Kp breaks four.
Read the pieceStofa Journal · weekly dispatches
Long reads from the road in.
Writing on Iceland’s hotels, the regions they sit in, and the seasons worth crossing an ocean for.
Snæfellsnes · 7 min
On the sound of silence at Búðir.
A black church, a lava field, and the house of Rúnar Marvinsson — the chef who put Icelandic food on white tablecloths.
South & East · 11 min
September is the secret month.
The Ring Road after the summer crowds have gone, before the first snow closes the highland passes.
Westfjords · 13 min
A week in the Westfjords — with a map and no reservation.
How three fjords, one bird cliff, and a red-sand beach turned into the kind of holiday people used to take.
Capital & South · 8 min
Winter belongs to the pool.
A field guide to Iceland's best geothermal baths — the famous, the quietly great, and the one nobody's on social media about.